31 Aralık 2012 Pazartesi

Because Oyster Rockefeller Sounds Rich

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There’s much debate over how many of America’s greatestrecipes got their name, but that’s not an issue with Oyster Rockefeller. Thanksto the rich, money-colored butter sauce, this decadent creation’s name prettymuch wrote itself.

Besides the obvious, superficial reasons, associating yournew shellfish appetizer with the most affluent family of the day was a strokeof social media genius. Hey, just because Twitter wouldn’t be invented foranother 107 years doesn’t mean people didn’t “retweet” things.

When Jules Alciatore invented the dish in 1899, he wasn’ttrying to create a classic, new American shellfish appetizer; he was simplytrying to replace snails in his diet. That’s right, what would become America’sgreatest seafood appetizer (sorry, crab cakes) was just a delicious work-aroundfor a serious shortage of French snails in New Orleans.

To say the customers of Antoine's were happy with this localsubstitution would be a huge understatement. They went crazy for it. The dishquickly gained national attention, with the most famous celebrities,politicians, and foreign dignitaries of the day stumbling over each to get aplate or three.

The original secret recipe really is a secret; so allversions, including mine, are just guesses. There is agreement among foodieswho study such matters that spinach was not part of the formula, but the muchspicier and more flavorful watercress was used.

Neither were mushrooms, bacon, ham, cheese, garlic, or any otherlater day add-ons. Not that those ingredient aren’t good baked on top ofoysters, but that just wasn’t how Mr. Alciatore rolled. So if you are lookingfor a special occasion appetizer that tastes, looks, and makes you feel (andsound) rich, then I hope you give this oyster Rockefeller recipe a try. Enjoy!

Makes enough for about 3 dozen oysters Rockefeller:
1 stick butter (1/2 cup) room temp
2 tbsp minced green onions, white and light green parts
2 tbsp diced celery
2 tbsp fresh chopped tarragon
2 tbsp fresh chopped Italian parsley
1 cup chopped watercress leaves
salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste
2 tbsp Pernod liquor
1/4 cup bread crumbs
3 dozen oysters on the half shell

Bonus How to Open Oyster Video!

My friend Tamar, from Starving Off the Land, does a much better job of showing how to open oysters, but that’s only because she raises them and gets a lot more practice! That, and she’s better at it. Also, a special thanks to Sky Sabin Productions for their fine work on this.

For some additional shucking info, and tons of oyster recipe links, you can also check out this article on Allrecipes.com. Enjoy!
 
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Merry Christmas!

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Photo (c) Flickr user kevindooley
Michele and I wanted to wish all of you who celebrate, avery Merry Christmas. Hopefully you’re surrounded by the people you love,and/or a ton of great food. 

We have a new video posting on Thursday, but untilthen I’m going to try and take a few days off from staring at the omnipresent computer.Seasonal apologies for any lags in responding to comments or emails. Enjoy therest of your holiday!Pin It Now!

Garlic & Blue Cheese Green Bean Almondine – I Just Couldn’t Do It

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When I went to culinary school in the early Eighties, thechef instructors used “Green Beans Almondine” as a prime example for the kindof stodgy, clichéd, faux-fancy, vegetable side dishes that we were supposed toeradicate shortly after graduation. 

This was the dawn of a new age of Americancookery, and something so old-fashioned as green beans almondine had no placealong side our newfangled raspberry vinaigrettes and cajun fish.

There was only one problem with this prohibition...greenbeans and almonds tasted really good together, and made for a lovely side dish once ina while. Of course, fearing you’d be laughed out of the young, hot cooks club(hot from heat, not from hotness) you just didn’t dare make or serve such adinosaur.
Anyway, to make a long story short, I’ve finally done agreen beans almondine video, but added roasted garlic and blue cheese to it,just in case any of my old classmates are watching.  I actually did this at Thanksgiving, sans nuts, and it gotrave reviews, so I had a feeling the addition of the slivered almonds wouldwork just fine, and they did! I hope you give this a try soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients for 4-6 portions:
1 pound green beans, blanched in boiling, salted water untilalmost tender3 heads garlicolive oilsalt and pepper to taste cayenne to taste1/3 cup sliced almonds browned in 1 tsp butter2 oz Pt. Reyes blue cheese, or other blue cheese400 degrees F. for 15 minutesPin It Now!

Brazilian Feijoada – Happy (and hopefully very lucky) New Year!!

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We’ve posted about this before, but there’s a great,southern tradition of eating beans and greens on New Year’s Day to ensure goodfortune in the coming year. 

Apparently, by eating “poor” the first day of theyear, you align certain cosmic forces in your favor, which results inprosperity and good luck the rest of the year. Sounds crazy, right? I know, you’re way too sophisticated tobelieve in such lame supernatural shenanigans. Hey wait a minute…don’t youwatch all those ghost hunter shows on cable TV? Busted! Hey, did you hear thatnoise?

Anyway, whether you believe in this kind of culinary clairvoyanceor not, this Brazilian feijoada is one of the world’s great stews. Thetraditional good luck bean is the black-eyed pea, but here we’re celebratingthe delicious, and very nutritious, black bean.

I tried to be clear in the video that this is just myversion, and not some attempt at true feijoada authenticity, whatever that is.As long as you have black beans, and LOTS of smoked, salted, dried, and/orcured meats, you are well on your way to some kind of feijoada-likeawesomeness.

In case you’re wondering, all I did for the greens was boilsome kale in salted water until tender, and then sauté briefly in olive oil andgarlic. It pairs perfectly with the white rice and rich stew, and while I can’tguarantee a year’s worth of wealth and good luck, I can promise you a deliciousbowl of food. Happy New Year to all of you, and as always, enjoy!



Ingredients for 6 portions:
1 pounds dry black beans, soaked overnight
2 quarts water, plus more as needed (add more whenever stewlooks too dry)
1 bay leaf
2 smoked pork chops
12 oz linguica
8 oz Italian sausage
4 oz smoked bacon
3 oz dried beef
1 onion
6 cloves garlic
1 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp coriander
salt and pepper to taste
For the crumbs:
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp grated orange zest
2 tbsp chopped Italian parsley

Basic steps:
- Soak beans overnight, add to pot with bay leaf, beefjerky, and any bones
- Simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until beans are cooked,but very firm
- Add onion mixture and meats, and simmer for another hour,or until beans are very soft
- Add a splash of water at any point during the cooking ifstew looks too dry
- Test and add salt near the end, depending on saltiness ofmeatPin It Now!

Beef Bourguignon (Beef Burgundy) - Pressure Cooker Style

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During Spring/Summer, our Weber grill gets quite a workout. Alas, our outdoor grills are tucked in for our California winters. Our tomato plants are spent, and our small herb and vegetable garden is looking a bit sparse.  Sigh. 


Our thyme and marjoram are still hearty, this time of year, and they don't go to waste in the kitchen. It soups & stew season, and I'm ready!


Now that the days are chillier, with much needed rain, my Dutch oven is being put to a lot more use. This is the time of year, when I become a lean and mean "Searer" and "Braiser".  The aroma of a savory stew, wafting from the kitchen, is comforting. My Perfect Pot Roast recipe  rules as one of the most appreciated slow-cooked dinners that I make.  Cooking an inexpensive cut of beef, in a braising liquid,  for a long period of time yields tender meat and a succulent sauce.  Drool. 


Last week, I had a craving for Beef Burgundy -- aka "Beef Bourguignon".   I couldn't stop thinking about the first time I had this dish, at a catered party.  I really wanted to recreate this stew, with it's rich and flavorful sauce.Visions of Julia Child, popped into my head.  I've never read-- let alone, made --the esteemed Julia's recipe-- and  I assumed her recipe would be a lot of work.    Still, it was 1:00 in the afternoon and I had Christmas cookie dough to make. I realized that I didn't have the time to make this classic French stew and I needed my oven!  The slow cooker was out-- and then it hit me.

Pressure cook it!  I know, I know... pressure cookers scare a lot of newbies.  There is a fear of an explosion.  I tell you the truth-- It's an unfounded fear.  My first pressure cooker was a stovetop model, with the regulator (that "thingie" that rocks back and forth with a chhh-chhh-chhh sound).  Not once, did I have an explosion.


About 9 years ago, I invested in an electric digital pressure cooker, and I love so many features of this model.  Mine has a browning cycle, and a non-stick removable insert and I love it's oval shape. The brand is "Cook's Essentials" and I bought mine from QVC.  I see that the newer model is completely different than mine, and has less stellar reviews.   The day mine breaks, I would buy a 5-quart model all over again.

Don't worry. If you don't own a pressure cooker, you can make this in a Dutch oven.  If you want to make this in a slow cooker-- I beg you to not do one thing that makes my skin crawl. Please, don't throw in raw meat!  To me, the best tasting stews come from taking the time to sear and brown the meat, first. All that beautiful brown crusty build-up, in the pan is what gives the sauce great flavor.

Pinkie promise?  Thank you. I'm not gonna lie. It takes about an hour to get the stew ready.  Enough talking-- I'll show you how I made this:

First, we build flavor. I keep frozen bacon, so it's easier to cut into "lardons".  In a heavy skillet, cook the bacon until crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon onto a paper towel lined plate. Set aside.

Finely chop 2 fresh carrots. Yes, I took a shortcut and let my food processor do the work.  Clean and quarter one pound of fresh white mushrooms.

Pearl onions are traditional in this stew.  Peeling them takes work, so I used frozen onions. I simply rinsed them, shook them dry and then sauteed them until they were lightly golden.

I then added 2 cloves of minced garlic for the last 30 seconds, removed the onions and set those aside.

In the same pan, add a little olive oil and saute the carrots for 2-3 minutes-- just until soft. Remove and set aside.

When you buy stewing meat, ask your butcher about Chuck Eye Roast. I pay about $7.00 a pound, but it's worth it. Seriously.  It's the perfect meat for stewing, and is far more tender than buying "stew cut meat". With stew cut meat, you don't know what the butcher has thrown together, and I've had my fair share of chewy stew.

I cut the meat into bite-size pieces and make sure that it's dry. Season the meat with salt & pepper and flour and toss together to coat evenly.


In the same pan that I cooked add a little vegetable oil, and bring the pan to medium-high. Open up the windows and turn on your vents.  We're about to do some seriously searing.  The key to searing is to get the pan very hot. Don't crowd the meat and leave it alone for 2-3 minutes.  If you keep moving the meat around, you won't get the sear = less flavor = bummer.  It took about 3 batches to get all the meat nicely browned. Pile the seared meat into a big bowl.

I then added a heaping tablespoon of tomato paste, and stirred it around the dark "fond" that was built. Now, we're going to "deglaze" with 1-1/2 cups red wine. I used burgundy, but any kind of red wine will do.  Scrape the pan and stir the liquid around, loosening up the brown bits.


Add the carrots and bacon, and give it a stir.
Add one cup of beef broth and one tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce (my not-so-secret flavor builder).

Add the browned beef into you Dutch oven, slow cooker or pressure cooker. Pour the sauce over it.

Tie a few springs of fresh marjoram and thyme (thyme only will do) and nestle it into the stew.
In a Dutch oven, place into a 275 degree oven for 3 hours or simmer on low on the stove top.
-or-
Slow cook for 6 hours, on low.
-or-
Pressure cook for 40 minutes! Yes, 40 minutes.

Meanwhile prepare the mushrooms:
Clean the same skillet, and on medium heat, melt the butter and oil until bubbling.
Add the cleaned and dry mushrooms and saute the mushrooms for about 5 minutes— shaking the skillet intermittently until the mushrooms are lightly golden (about 7 minutes total). Remove from the skillet and set aside.

The pressure cooker beeped, and it's time to release the pressure.  (My cat doesn't like this part, and she skedaddles.)

The stew is bubbly hot, and smells so good! Remove the herb bundle with tongs, as it's done it's job.


Add the mushrooms, and onions.
For the pressure cooker, seal the lid again and pressure cook (on high) for 5 minutes more. Release the steam, and the stew is ready. For a Dutch oven or slow cooker, allow to cook for about 15 minutes more.
Toss in some chopped fresh parsley and serve. NOTE: if you prefer a thicker stew, I made a slurry of cornstarch and water and carefully whisk it in; simmer until thickened. However, I didn't need to do that, this time.
Traditionally, this stew is served with steamed potatoes. I was craving egg noodles. Um, I didn't have any... so I made my own.  (Yes, I can be an over-achiever at times.) I didn't document how I made the noodles, but I'll do it again and save that for another post.
The meat was buttery tender, the sauce had a rich flavor with notes of red wine.  The next day, it tasted even better.  I would serve this at a dinner party, and am sure that my guests would love it.
So, after I made this stew I quickly wrote down how I created it. Out of curiosity, I did an internet search to see if I could find Julia Child's recipe.  I did a fist pump, realizing that my version was very similar to hers. Wow!  
I would like to thank Barbara, of Pressure Cooking Today, for featuring this post on her wonderful blog. Barbara has a lot of mouth-watering recipes and valuable information about pressure cooking. If  you've been thinking that you "might" want a pressure cooker, I encourage you to just do it! Thanks to Barbara, I am using my PC to make mashed potatoes in 6 minutes. I can cook beans in a fraction of the time it takes to do it on a stove. Soups... rice pudding... it's like a microwave, only better (and healthier).  
A printable recipe card is at the end of this post. If you can't view the recipe card (Internet Explorer uses are having problems with this, click here.)


27 Aralık 2012 Perşembe

I'm missing my camera!

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In the mean time I have my old cheap digital camera that takes average photos outside with good light but terribly blurry photos inside. It just frustrates me so I don't use it much. I'm going into picture taking withdraws.
I haven't been taking photos which means I haven't been posting. I don't feel like I can blog with out pictures. :) 
With or without a camera these energetic boys of ours still keep me busy.
Last week the boys and I made homemade gluten free waffle cones.


We are embracing the fact that it's 80 degrees today and we're going to make home made ice cream. Maybe even the waffle cones again... this time with out the holes in the bottom. ;)

My sister in law, Rachel, is coming to visit next week! (that is if the world doesn't end on Friday, heehee) She'll arrive on Christmas eve and will be here for a couple of weeks. We are looking forward to her visit!

Be sure to visit my friend Amy's blog, This Abundant Life. She's having some fun giveaways this week. Each giveaway is open for one day and the winner is posted the next day.


Happy Boxing Day!

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 A very special treat this weekend was getting to see my cousins. Carrie and Shelly live in Pennsylvania and Jen (the sister in the middle) is a missionary in Senegal Africa. It was a double treat to get to see them all together. 

These are some special girls. We always have a good time together.
Both boys and I spent Christmas Eve in bed or on couch the feeling so yucky and looking like this...Not the way I imagined Christmas. Geoff even had to leave us sickies at home and go to the airport to pick up his sister by himself. 
He met her with a handful of vitamins and said "You're gonna want to take these". 
We woke up Christmas morning feeling a little bit better.

Rachel brought an ornament for us that was Granny's. It's hanging on our tree and will remind us of that amazing and sweet Granny of ours each time we decorate our tree.
We all met at my dad and mom's for a delicious meal.
Sweetie looked adorable in her festive dress.
My sister and her family. Love these guys!
We are so blessed with a wonderful family.
I'm praying Rachel doesn't catch this awful bug because we have lot of fun planned for while she's here!




What You Don't Know About Writing a Cookbook

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Life as a recipe writer/tester is good when things work out.
So I'm officially in the thick of it, brainstorming, writing, shopping for ingredients, testing, tasting, re-writing, shopping for ingredients, re-testing, tasting, cleaning, bleaching and cleaning some more.
Such is the glamorous life of writing a cookbook. Don't get me wrong, I am utterly thrilled to death to have this opportunity, and every day I've got my eyes on the prize for when that first box of copies arrives on my doorstep, but the fact is, the means to the end involves some seriously hard work.

For starters, I haven't had a day off in at least 3 weeks (maybe more, but who is counting), and it looks like there ain't one coming anytime soon. I've got a fast deadline looming that often gives me panic attacks, most of the time at the oh-so convenient hour of 3am, which in turn, makes me a ball of fun when I have to get up at 7am. to start food prep.

Since I'm writing a slow cooker cookbook (emphasis on sloooowwww), the majority of the recipes I'm testing require 8+ hours of cooking time with some recipes topping out at 10-12 hours, which means there are some days where my work day starts at 8am and finishes at 11pm+. In effect, I've become a slave to my hot-ass kitchen, I've one nasty case of cabin fever, and I'm starting to get really cranky.

Now that I've aired that laundry list of whiny complaints, let me give you something practical to chew on, a little window into the financial world of what it's like to write a cookbook.

Recipe testing is an arduous and often expensive process: While some cookbook authors have an army of recipe writers, testers, kitchen assistants, personal shoppers, even ghostwriters to pen their books, the rest of us are left with a cutting board, a knife, pens and paper, and a long day ahead, and I personally wouldn't have it any other way. I'm far to anal to put my work in the hands of someone else, and frankly, sometimes it's easier to fly solo. While I do have several fine volunteer recipe testers lined up to help me (mostly friends and family), this will only happen after I have tested them at least twice and butchered them all to hell (please reference the above photo). This process not only includes conceptualizing, writing, testing, and re-testing, but sometimes even total failure with a complete do-over.
It also involves assembling grocery lists, shopping, shopping some more, and then shopping some more. I know my grocery store produce guys, my butchers and my check-out gals, and I figure they're wondering why I'm there all the time.

What many people may not realize is that all of these trips to the grocery store I pay for myself and they can get seriously expensive after weekly visits for months on end. But you got a big advance, so what's the problem, you ask? I did get an advance, but it wasn't "big" or anywhere on par with a Rachael Ray six-plus figure deal. It was average, and on par with what other cookbook authors who aren't celebs tend to make, and while I am thankful for the cushion, I will also need every penny of it. 
For starters, I paid a literary lawyer to help me negotiate the contract (I don't have an agent which can be another 15% deducted out of both your advance and your royalties). I am also paying for the book's photography (a biggie, but worth it because I know it will be stellar). I'm even paying for the indexing of the recipes (which takes a professional's eye so that was a necessity).

None of these extra costs are news to seasoned cookbook authors. This is how it's done now, and when one signs on to write a book, it's expected, but throw in food costs for testing some hundreds of recipes, paying the I.R.S., kitchen equipment costs, even basic necessities that get used up on a regular basis like trash bags, kitchen cleaning materials, kitchen tools etc...when the smoke clears, often an author ain't left with much. Toss in the fact that when she is on a super tight deadline, she won't have any time to take on any other jobs, so this cashola up front has got to last. To get a good idea of what I'm talking about, check out this article by veteran cookbook author David Lebovitz (specifically reference section 6 to see what I mean).

At the same time, writing a cookbook can be a beautiful thing. I've got dinners in the freezer to last the rest of the year, and my husband, parents and neighbors eat like kings. They get overly caloric, bacon-laden goodies like this on a regular basis:
They even get leftovers that can be made into yummy sandwiches.So all is certainly not lost, not even close. I am loving every second of sweating in the kitchen and plopping my butt in front of the computer to conceive something new and exciting. In fact, I haven't felt this happy in a long time, and in the end that's what it's all about. I'm doing what I love, living the dream. I won't be getting rich and I'm okay with that. This is not why I'm here, and I figure thousands of hard working chefs, food writers, bloggers and various creatives know exactly what I'm talking about.
In the meantime, I shall keep on keeping on and you should too. If you dream of writing a cookbook one day, don't let this information discourage you, but do know it's not all hearts and flowers. If you're okay with that and still want in, write a book proposal, get an agent, or self-publish your own book. Whatever you do, just do it. Your personal satisfaction will be priceless.

©2012 Fatback and Foie Gras. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.




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